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Practices · Beginner Guide

Breathing by the Ganga:
what pranayama actually is.

6 min read · Updated for the current season

A group seated for pranayama practice beside the Ganga in Rishikesh

Most people come to Rishikesh for the poses: the mat, the shapes, the class that starts before the light does. Then the teacher gives twenty minutes of it to almost nothing at all, just breathing, and that turns out to be the part they still think about months later. Pranayama and breathwork in Rishikesh are not extras added to a yoga class. Here they are usually treated as a large part of the point of it. The words sound more complicated than the hour actually is.

What pranayama actually means

Prana is commonly translated as life force or vital energy. Ayama is extension, or regulation. Put the two together and you have breathing on purpose, rather than the automatic version you have been running since the day you were born.

You are already breathing. In pranayama you start by noticing how, and then work with it deliberately: slowing it down, changing the rhythm, using one nostril at a time, letting a pause sit where a pause belongs. At beginner level that is genuinely all it is.

You do not need to know a word of Sanskrit before your first class. A good beginner session explains the technique, then gives you time to practise it, and that is the shape of a first morning.

Pranayama or breathwork, is there a difference

Not exactly. Pranayama is the traditional yogic set. Breathwork is the broader word, and it takes in pranayama along with newer methods that arrived from elsewhere. In Rishikesh you will hear both, sometimes in the same sentence, and nobody minds.

What matters more than the label is whether you understand what the teacher is asking you to do, and whether you can do it comfortably with someone watching. A technique that sounds advanced is not the same as a technique that is any use to you this week.

The techniques a beginner actually meets

You will not practise all of these in one class. A good teacher starts with plain breath awareness and introduces the rest slowly.

  • Three-part breathing: Belly, ribs, chest, in that order, instead of the shallow automatic version. Unglamorous, and the foundation of everything that follows it.
  • Nadi shodhana: Alternate nostril breathing. One side at a time, slow and even. Usually the first named technique you are handed, and the one most people keep.
  • Ujjayi: A gentle narrowing at the throat that makes the breath slightly audible. You will meet it again inside asana, where it sets the rhythm.
  • Bhramari: A soft hum on the exhale. It feels strange the first time. After a few rounds most people stop worrying about how it looks.
  • Kapalabhati: Active, forceful exhales with the inhale left to happen by itself. Stimulating, technically a cleansing practice rather than pranayama proper, and by some distance the one beginners push too hard.

Why it is taught with asana, not on its own

The classical order puts asana before pranayama, and the reason is practical rather than ceremonial. A body that cannot sit upright for long without fidgeting is not going to sit through a long stretch of breathing. The postures are, among other things, what makes the sitting possible.

It runs the other way too. Asana without the breath is stretching. The breath sets the pace of a class, tells you when a posture has gone past useful into forced, and keeps your attention inside the room instead of in tomorrow. That is why pranayama here turns up inside a yoga class rather than as a separate appointment. It is also the easiest way in for anyone who has decided they cannot meditate: following a breath gives your attention something simple to hold, which is far easier than following nothing.

What a morning by the river feels like

Ours run at Sai Ghat, starting at six in the morning, before the town is properly awake. What follows is much the same anywhere along this stretch of the Ganga.

It is cold at the start, colder than you expect even in warm months, because the river moves air down the valley all night. The light is still grey when you sit down. You settle your posture and begin with the slower, simpler breathing, and at first you notice everything: your back complains, your mind wanders, and you realise your ordinary breathing is shallower than you thought.

Then the counting starts. The teacher gives you a rhythm to follow. There are bells somewhere behind you, the water keeps making its noise, and the hills on the far bank come out of the dark while you sit facing them. At some point you stop checking the clock. It is unremarkable while it is happening, and it lands later, over breakfast, when you notice you have not reached for your phone.

Nobody had to teach you to breathe. The whole practice is learning to notice that you are doing it.

Can a complete beginner do this?

Yes, and most of the room usually is one. You do not need to be flexible, experienced in yoga, or familiar with a single Sanskrit term. The one thing that helps is telling the teacher you are new, because then the session is built around that instead of around whoever has been practising for ten years. Breathing practices can be slowed down, shortened or simplified, and the goal of a first class is not to perform the most complicated technique in the room.

It suits:

  • Complete beginners, including people whose first yoga class this also is
  • Anyone who has already decided they are bad at meditation
  • Travellers who sleep badly on the road
  • Bloggers and content creators, though the phone goes down for the hour and the riverbank is better for it
  • Anyone who wants one thing from this trip they can still do at home, in a room with no river in it

You need very little for it. Comfortable clothes you can sit on the floor in, water, and a light layer for the riverbank at six. Most of all, arrive without the expectation that you are supposed to be good at it. You are there to learn.

Being honest about what it does, and when to stop

This is where writing about breathwork usually overreaches, so, plainly: practitioners report feeling calmer, sleeping better and thinking more clearly on the days they practise. Long-term students say it more strongly still. Those are reports. They are worth something. They are not a medical result, and no honest teacher will hand you one. Nothing here is medical advice, and none of it replaces a conversation with your own doctor.

The safety side is simpler and matters more. The forceful techniques are not handed to everybody, and teachers here routinely ask the room about pregnancy, blood pressure, heart conditions, epilepsy, glaucoma, recent surgery, and whether fast breathing has ever tipped you into anxiety. If any of that is you, say so before the class starts rather than halfway through it, and check with your doctor first if you are unsure. Any teacher worth practising with will give you a slower version instead.

And one rule sits above all of it. If a breathing exercise makes you dizzy or uncomfortable, stop. Feeling uncomfortable is not proof that a technique is working.

How much of your trip this needs

Less than people assume, which is the useful part. You do not have to spend weeks in an ashram for any of it to count. One guided class is a real introduction, so even on a single day in Rishikesh a six AM session costs you an hour you were going to spend asleep. Over two days it becomes how both mornings start, and over three the repetition begins doing the work that one class only hints at.

A wellness retreat gives you the same practice every morning with everything around it agreeing with it, and longer courses exist for anyone who wants to study the techniques rather than sample them. Most travellers try one session and see how it feels, which is a perfectly sensible way to start.

How this fits into a trip with us

Yoga and breathwork runs at Sai Ghat from 6:00 to 7:30 AM on the retreat mornings (Reset, Restore and Rebirth alike), taught by our own teacher rather than an outsourced one. The one morning retreat guests miss it is the Kunjapuri sunrise day, which leaves long before class begins. The breathing is built into the class rather than bolted onto the end of it.

If you are already in town and not on a retreat, the same class is open as a drop-in for whichever mornings you want it: single sessions, no package needed. Either way, tell the teacher it is your first go at pranayama and breathwork in Rishikesh, and the morning gets built around that.

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